In the morning I enjoyed a rare expanse of green in Lumphini Park, took a cruise along the Chao Phraya River, stared at the shiny towers of the Grand Palace, and was impressed with the Reclining Buddha of Wat Pho. But the day was not over. After several hours of walking and wishing I went somewhere cold instead, I decided to take it slow. It was almost 4PM, my skin was red and itchy, I smelled like someone who spent hours under the sun (because I did!) and I had blisters on my feet. Still I walked to a café along the Chao Phraya River. I was a girl on a mission.
Vivi the Coffee Place and Wat Arun
That mission was Wat Arun and sunset.
Prior to this trip, I looked up places where I could watch Bangkok’s sunset and Wat Arun was one of the most-mentioned spots. Technically, you had to watch on the other side of the river, on the Rattanakosin side. One of the dining places that had a prime view of Wat Arun was Vivi the Coffee Place.
Vivi was a charming café and it gave off a lazy vibe. On its menu were coffee, milkshakes, pasta and sandwiches. Since I came around 4PM, I had a lot of time to kill before the sunset, just enough to rest and nurse my sunburnt skin and blistered feet.
I never did get the chance to see Wat Arun up close but even from afar, I could understand why it was one of the most symbolic landmarks in Bangkok. Its prang (or Khmer-style tower) is high (76 meters), decorated by seashells and porcelain, faintly shimmering against the sunlight. Wat Arun literally translates to Temple of Dawn and shines brightly when struck by light from the sunrise. But its best view is said to come not during dawn, but during dusk.
The sun set at around 6PM, turning the sky into a palette of orange, gold, pink, and purple. Simply saying it was beautiful is not enough. The whole experience ended up being my favorite moment from the trip and it merits a whole other post. Even now, a couple of months after the experience, I still smile at the memory of it.
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Tuktuk Ride
The day is not over. Since I was already in the Rattanakosin district, I figured I’d see the famous Khao San Road. If I wasn’t already tired, I would have walked. Instead I tried to book a GrabCar. When that didn’t work because of the rush hour and surge, I tried to hail a regular cab. Unfortunately, the cab drivers of Manila and Bangkok are pretty much similar in that they’re picky and charge more than what you’re supposed to pay for. Upon saying that I need to go to Khao San, they would say no. My last resort was the tuktuk, Bangkok’s crazier version of the tricycle. The fare was THB100 for a trip that I knew would take less than 20 minutes. I knew I was being ripped off but I was too tired to argue.
The driver was funny though. He asked me where I was from, since I looked Thai but couldn’t speak Thai. So I said I’m from the Philippines and he immediately replied with a boisterous “Pacquiao!” I couldn’t help but smile and shake my head at his reaction. I tried saying that the current Miss Universe is also Filipino but of course, he only knew Pacman. He even “introduced” me to the other tuktuk drivers, pointing at me while repeating “Pacquaio!”
Blogs and some friends warned against riding tuktuks, primarily because of the outrageous charges (you have to negotiate well before riding) and the infamous gem scam but it was also an interesting experience for me. The ride can only be described as crazy and dangerous. I’m pretty sure we were way beyond the speed limit. I had to hold on for dear life while trying to take a video. To show you how fast (and bumpy) my ride was, here’s a quick video.
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Khao San Road
The word khao san means “milled rice” and it is said that Khao San Road was originally the site of a milled rice market. Nowadays, the area is known as backpacker heaven, filled with cheap guesthouses (the cheapest in Bangkok), street stalls, laid back cafes and bars, and secondhand book stores. Hair braiding is a common scene on the road, as well as food carts selling pad thai, juice, finger foods, and bugs.
I came to Khao San for the bugs. A friend joked that I had to take home fried crickets and it made me wonder how they look like. These bugs are probably one of the famous street food in Bangkok, too famous that the cunning vendors charge THB10 just for taking of photos and videos. Don’t attempt to steal a shot, you won’t escape the vendor’s watchful eyes. You won’t be able to take clear photos anyway if you don’t pay because they cover the goods with boards and they only turn on the lights after you pay.
It wasn’t hard to see why backpackers flock to Khao San. It gave off a bohemian, carefree, youthful vibe. I was beat though and parties aren’t exactly my scene so I contented myself with a stroll, taking in the surroundings and observing people (mostly Caucasians) stopping only for photos and for pad thai. This Bangkok trip was indeed an exercise in people-watching and here in Khao San Road, there were plenty to watch.
Ever been to these places? Share your stories in the comments!
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