Touring Rainy South Batan: 10 Must-Do’s

Batanes is a dream. One of the most remote and beautiful islands in the Philippines, it’s an item on many people’s bucket lists. Airfare is expensive though so even for Filipinos, visiting this paradise is not easy. So when I scored discounted seats in time for my birthday, I was ecstatic. Who knew that my long awaited visit to Batanes would coincide with Typhoon Lando’s rampage in the country?

I was fortunate that the sun still shone on our first day, my birthday. We toured North Batan. On the second day, we were supposed to tour Sabtang Island (the southernmost island of the Batanes island group) but the waves were too strong for a boat ride and the coast guard wouldn’t allow us to cross. We hoped that the typhoon would weaken so we’d be able to visit Sabtang before we return to Manila. But we ended up stranded in Basco for a week and still unable to tour Sabtang. 🙁

Instead of Sabtang, my sister, Pam, and I toured South Batan on the second day with other guests of Marfel’s Lodge: couple Mitch and Jan, and solo travelers, Nonie and Julze. The South Batan tour is a day-tour (usually takes 8 to 9 hours) that covers the towns of Mahatao, Ivana and Uyugan. It was a rainy and windy day but it was one of the best tours I’ve ever had. Batanes is a wonder of nature even when the sun’s hiding. Rain or shine, here are 10 things you should do in South Batan:

Take ‘buwis buhay’ shots at the Chawa Viewing Deck.

Chawa Viewing Deck is located in the town of Mahatao and faces the West Philippine Sea. Here, you can see the strong waves of the sea smashing on towering rocks. There are benches where you can sit and take in the view. There’s a stair leading to the shore but because it was too windy and the stair looked slippery so we didn’t dare go down. We had our first groufie here.

Smell the sea from the ports.

The Mahatao Shelter Port, also known as the Diosdado Macapagal – Jorge Abad, Sr. Boat Shelter Port, was inaugurated in 2007. It was built to protect the fishing boats from the harsh weather.

There were a few boats docked in the port when we visited, as well as… goats. Meeeehhhh!

We stopped at another port, this time in Ivana. The Port of Ivana is located across the San Jose de Ivana Church and near the famous Honesty Store. Boats going to Sabtang Island are docked here. I had to take several photos of the port and Sabtang’s silhouette because as far as Typhoon Lando was concerned, this was all I’m getting.

Visit churches.

As a predominantly Roman Catholic province, Batanes has no shortage of churches. They are grand, draped in history, and beautiful.

On our South Batan tour, we stopped by two churches: the San Carlos Borromeo Church in Mahatao and the San Jose de Ivana Church in Ivana.

The San Carlos Borromeo Church, also known as Mahatao Church, was built in 1787, destroyed by a typhoon in 1872, and reconstructed in 1873. The National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCCA) declared it a National Culture Heritage Treasure in July 31, 2001.

The San Jose de Ivana Church, also known as Ivana Church, was also established in 1787 and is the only church in Batanes with a separate bell tower. The National Historical Commission of the Philippines declared it a National Historical Landmark in 2008.

Marvel at Mahatao’s Tayid Lighthouse.

There are actually two lighthouses near the San Carlos Borromeo Church but they are old, small, and and non-functional so they are mostly overlooked. So when you say Mahatao Lighthouse, what immediately comes to mind is this.

To set the record straight, this is Tayid Lighthouse, not the Mahatao Lighthouse, at least not yet.

Like the other two famous lighthouses in Batanes (Basco Lighthouse in Naidi Hills and Sabtang Lighthouse), the Tayid Lighthouse is a relatively new structure built in 2000. The tower is hexagonal and faces the beautiful Pacific Ocean.

It took mad skills to take photos on the ledge because the wind was so strong but it was super worth it. I mean, look at these gorgeous views!

Wear traditional Ivatan costume.

Your Batanes experience is not complete if you didn’t wear a vakul or a kanayi. Vakul is a headgear worn women. It’s counterpart for men is Talugong, but we didn’t get to wear that. Kanayi, on the other hand, is a vest worn by men. All of these famed Ivatan gears are used as protection from rain, sun and wind, and are made from voyayoy (Philippine date palm) leaves.

When we went to Paulvana’s Canteen for our tour lunch, there was a vakul and kanayi hanging inside, as well as a basket which native’s name escapes me. Of course we had to grab the opportunity to wear the heavy but obviously sturdy Ivatan gears.

Take a dip at Homoron White Beach.

Beach bum? Batanes does not disappoint. While North Batan’s Valugan Boulder Beach is not recommended for swimming (but makes for the breath-taking photos), Homoron White Beach in Mahatao is. West Philippine Sea’s waves are gentler here and the waters are shallower than most Batanes beaches. Homoron White Beach beckons for a dip… and one should give in. We didn’t, of course, because the waves were too strong that day and most of us were wearing sneakers.

See the oldest stone house in Batanes.

Built in 1887, the House of Dakay (Vahay ni Dakay in Ivatan) is the oldest stone house in Batanes, probably the most visited one, too. Its thick walls are made of stone and lime and the roof made of cogon grass – materials that withstand time and the harsh weather of Batanes. Florestilda Estrella, known as Lola Ida, is a descendant of the Dakay family and still lives in this house. She is said to be one of the oldest people in Batanes, and believed to be the most photographed one. Unfortunately, she wasn’t in the house when we stopped by.

The house, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Building, is located in Ivana, just a couple of minutes away from the port, San Jose de Ivana Church and the Honesty Coffee Shop.

Be honest.

Batanes boasts ZERO crime rate and with my 8-day stay (in what was supposedly a 4-day vacation) in Basco, I can tell you that Ivatans are one of the kindest people I have ever met. They are gentle, generous, and good-natured people. And honest. So honest, in fact, that their famous Honesty Coffee Shop is always open and always unmanned.

Located just a few steps away from the Ivana Port and Ivana Church, the sari-sari store and coffee shop sells souvenir items, food and drinks. Most items are marked with their corresponding prices and customers get what they want and drop the payment in the counter. The store has been around for two decades and is a testament to Batanes’ admirable culture.

Scream your heart out at Alapad Hills.

Alapad Hills is a famous stop in South Batan because some scenes in the 90s movie “Hihintayin Kita sa Langit” were shot here. That famous “I-Dawn Zulueta mo ako” moment? Yep, that was shot here. It would be challenging to recreate that moment here because it’s so darn windy. I had to hold my camera stick with both hands when taking photos and my forehead was bared for the world to see. Thanks, wind. “Nilipad ako” Hills is more like it. Hahahaha

Like most hills in Batanes, Alapad gives you an awesome view of the sea and rock formations. In fact, a part of the rock formation was cut to give way to the road. How cool, right?

Enjoy God’s creation at Marlboro Hills.

Our final stop for the South Batan tour is also my favorite place in Batanes – Racuh a Payaman Hills also known as Marlboro Hills. The latter name was given by a tourist years ago. And it’s not hard to see why one would call it that. The rolling hills serve as grazing field for carabaos, cows and horses but for travelers, this is heaven. From here, I saw the Tayid Lighthouse and Mt. Iraya, albeit faint because of the fog and clouds.

Since it was the last stop, we had more time to take photos, feel the wind, and witness the beauty of God’s creations. Batanes is stunning and it is even more evident here at Marlboro Hills.

Our South Batan tour wouldn’t be as educational and fun without our guide, Kuya Bob. I highly recommend getting a guided tour from BISUMI Tours (all guides are Ivatans!) instead of DIY tours. It’s not only more convenient, it’s also safer and the guides tell you more about the history of the place. Plus, they totally know how to take good photos. 🙂

And in case this wasn’t enough to convince you to visit Batanes ASAP, you may also check this out.